Textiles from the Li people of Hainan Island (Part 1)
The Li are related to Dai/Tai people from across southeast Asia, and they are part of the broader Austronesian family. Their textiles, particularly their striking supplementary weft and ikat designs, show their connection with southeast Asian peoples and are quite different from textiles from other parts of southwestern China. Their spectacular textiles use a variety of locally grown plant fibers with unique textures. Good, old textiles from the Li of Hainan are now rare.
Click on the photos for a larger images.
CET340 Rare Meifu Li ikat tubeskirt with supplementary weft band, from Hainan island. This type of skirt was mainly worn by unmarried Meifu Li women on festivals and special occasions. This type is now very rare, with almost no examples left in Hainan where they originated. The main part of the skirt is made from handspun cotton decorated with ikat designs, including human figures, deer and geometric designs of various kinds, interspersed with rows of warp patterning. The supplementary weft band is made of handspun cotton dyed a dark indigo blue, with some red and orange stripes of silk supplementary weft. (continued below)
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(CET 340: other side) The dyes and materials used on this skirt are similar to those that Stuebel found in use when he visited Hainan in the early 1930s, predominantly natural colors with a small amount of red silk, presumably using dye imported from the Chinese mainland. This skirt probably dates from this period. 54cm x 103cm.
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CET235 Meifu Li ikat skirt. Designs of stylized nagas in the upper part, central band of human figures in diamonds .Ikat bands are interspersed with warp-patterned bands in chocolate brown and undyed ivory colored yarn. I have several other ikat skirts of this type: please inquire. |
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| (reverse side of CET235) |  |
CET341 A tubeskirt made by Li people of the Ha subgroup. Handspun indigo-dyed cotton, decorated with human and geometric figures in silk. Mid-20th century or earlier. 50cm x 81cm. Price on request. |
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| (CET341: other side) |  |
CET359 Unusual Li tubeskirt from the Ha subgroup, with a supplementary weft band with diamond decoration and a waistband with narrow warp-decorated stripes. First quarter of the 20th century. 61cm x 81cm. Price on request. |
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| (reverse side of CET359) |  |
| (detail of human figures on CET359) |  |
CET212 Skirt made of plant fiber, in three sections, the middle section decorated with silk supplementary weft designs, including the characteristic dancing figures in the top row that are a "signature" of Li minority decoration. This is a old skirt dating to the first half of the 20th century. 37x57cm. |
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| (reverse side of CET212) |  |
CET213 An unusual Li minority skirt from the Qi subgroup, with two rows of silk brocading instead of the single row normally found on these skirts. The waisband and foundation material is natural handspun plant fiber, very old but retaining its smooth and somewhat stiff feel. The waistband has been partly folded over and stitched down by the original owner: this could be unpicked and flattened out for display. Designs of semi-abstracted dancing figures. First half of the 20thC. 38x62cm. |
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(reverse side of CET213 above) |
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| Go to part 2 |